Tamiya DF03 MS: Can it Compete Part 1, The Build


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Now we put the completed diff assembly in the rear gearbox.

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Cap it off with the cover.

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Here are the parts needed for the rear transmission. whats that in the bag? It is a center one way!

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Here we place the gear and bearings on the shaft.

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Next we place the one-way on its shaft. Note direction and placement of spacers.

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A close up of the one-way assembly with gear.

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One more bearing on the other side.

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Then we attach the drive cup with a set screw. I am not a fan of the outdrive being plastic.

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Oooops, be careful with the E-clips. I broked one.

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This is where the E-clip goes on the lay shaft.

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A couple of bearings…

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Now we can put it in the gearbox/tranny. I read online that the top shaft gear wears if not heavily greased so keep that in mind.

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All sealed up.

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The rear transmission.

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A little bling for the motor plate. This should keep motor temps down a bit.

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Here we have the motor plate installed and you can see two of the heat sinks.

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A better angle.

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The third one is underneath.

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Next we install the slipper clutch. Follow the instructions and you should have no problem. On a side note I read on the Tamiyaclub forums that you can use a Team Associated B4 spur gear. That way you can use 48 pitch gears instead of trying to find metric gears to match the stock spur and pinion.

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Gear cover and body mount.

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Here is a close up of the body mount. You just clip off the tabs on the side to where you want the body to sit.

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Here I have the gear cover and body mount attached.

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Next mount the shock tower and wing mount along with the rear tie rods.

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Plenty of adjustments here.

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Next up we install the rear arms and ball studs that the shocks mount to.

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Time to build the CVD’s.

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Make sure to put lots of anti wear grease on the moving parts.

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Slide the barrel into the end of the CVD.

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Now the drive pin.

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Secure it with a set screw and make sure to use locktight.

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Tighten all the way down.

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Here we have both rear CVD’s and hubs completed.

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This is the outer rear hinge pin. Notice the notch.

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Make sure to line that notch up with this set screw. It is what holds it in.

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Snap on the tie rods and there you have it. The rear end with arms.

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Another shot with the chassis installed.
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2 Responses to “Tamiya DF03 MS: Can it Compete Part 1, The Build”

  1. Mas says:

    I’m looking forward to part 2. I’m a Tamiya fan (because of how much fun they are to build) and would love to see how this matches up with the big guys.

  2. lee says:

    Bin the Tamiya shock oil and use racing quality oil.

    plus use green slime when you build those shocks.

    You will need Tungsten Carbide balls in that rear dif !!!!

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