Here is the entire kit all spread out. I love carbon fiber. Pemberton Raceworks anodizes all of their aluminum parts a gold/yellow finish that separates them from most other companies.

This is the main chassis and T-Plate. I laid them out to get an idea of how this thing will go together.

Instead of the old style T-Plate (like on Associated, etc), the PRW kit uses one that is completely held on with pivot joints. This was new to me compared to the ancient beast I ran last year. It goes together pretty easily though.

This is the pivot bag’s parts all laid out and organized.

The silver screws are what hold the pivot blocks to the chassis. The longer ones on the outside (on the chassis), and the shorter ones screw into the ball of the pivot joint.

Let’s start with these carbon fiber inserts. You will use 2 of them in each pivot block. They are really just a spacer to allow the locknuts to sit above the inset area of the pivot block.

Insert 1 carbon spacer in each side.

Then we have the pivot balls. These are directional so pay attention when assembling. One end of the ball has flange on it.

The flange part of the ball will face DOWN and touch the chassis/T-plate when assembled.

We then install the top of the pivot assembly with the included button head screws (should be in the same bag). These should be tightened enough to remove any up and down play, but the ball should still pivot freely. This is a fine adjustment and should be tightened a little at a time to prevent over-tightening.

Now we have completed assembly of all 4 pivot blocks.

Now we have these 3 little spacers.They go under the front 2 pivot blocks to raise the roll center of the car.

Here is how they will mount up. This section will be pretty explanatory. Use the silver screws like shown above and we’ll mount up the pivot blocks with lock nuts.

Now the front 2 pivot blocks are installed. The outside screws are secured with lock nuts, and the center screws thread into the ball. The ball has a hex in the top of it to secure it in place, so you tighten it down with a hex driver in both the screw from the bottom, and the ball itself.

The other 2 pivot blocks will attach the rear pod to the T-plate.

They mount up with the other black screws. Again, with the short ones in the center ball. It’s pretty easy to figure out which screws go where. There aren’t that many. I don’t have a list to go from or I would tell you the lengths.

An underside shot.