Here we have the Viper VTX1 sensored brushless ESC. I went with this system because of it’s simplicity. The VTX1 does not require a voltage booster, or require a receiver pack for 1s operation. This makes it an ideal choice for onroad applications. After using and loving their copperhead system in my T-RCE Slash 4×4, I wanted to try more of their equipment.

Viper knows how to package their goods. From the matte black and spot varnished box to their custom foam inserts.. I feel like I’m opening a brand new Apple product when I open a Viper product. Seriously.. the nicest packaging in the industry.

The VTX1 combo comes with the Pro Gauge. This is an awesome programming tool that not only programs the ESC, but it also can be a servo tester, voltage tester, and more. I can’t wait to use this more.

Below the layer of awesome electronics are the instructions, decals, and cables.

The motor packaging was just as nice. I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Viper ESC’s. The motors I don’t know too much about, I’m going against the grain in the oval world with this.. Everyone seems to be running the Trinity D3.5 motors, and I’m not sure if this will be competitive or not.. but we’ll give a shot for now. Worse comes to worse it should still make a great indoor off-road motor.

My favorite color is orange. I love the looks of this thing.

Let’s mount this bad boy.

Test fitting the ESC. The PRW crew loves the Castle Mamba Max Pro 1s ESC, and their car is designed to accommodate it. This Viper system has a MUCH smaller footprint and fits the ESC tray area with ease.

Let’s get it soldered up. First thing is tinning the posts and attaching the wires.

That was easy.

Here are the solder tabs on the motor. Different than what I’ve seen before but should work fine.

Here is a shot of the motor actually bolted up. I left pinion installation for the track.

Viper even gives you thick 3M foam tape that is EXACTLY cut for the footprint of the esc and the switch.

I cut the motor wires as short as I could, while allowing maximum pod movement. Makes for a nice looking installation. Too bad it ships with an 8″ sensor wire when I only need an inch, haha. I have that sticking up for now until I get ahold of a shorter one. I don’t need that much extra wire in my car.

I installed the full leads on the ESC and cut them down when it was installed.

I then soldered up a W.S. Deans Male end on the ESC. Since I’m only using the SMC Spec pack, Deans is the best connector choice.